The Hippocampi Collection: Layered Symbolism in Renaissance-Inspired Jewellery
Katherine Elder Hippocampi Collection pendant and ring showing hand-painted mythical sea horses on ebony wood with 18ct gold settings with morganite and freshwater pearls
The most treasured pieces in any collection are those that reward discovery - jewellery that reveals new layers of meaning each time you look closely. My Hippocampi Collection is my most experimental work to date: literal paintings transformed into fine jewellery, where every element carries symbolism that spans from ancient Greek mythology to the romance of the Renaissance.
Renaissance Masters: The Original Artist-Goldsmiths
Many of the master painters of the Renaissance trained as goldsmiths, ensuring a high level of precision and quality of line in their technique, influencing their painting and sculpture techniques. This tradition fascinated me - the idea that fine art and precious metalwork weren't separate disciplines, but different expressions of the same artistic vision.
As a painter myself, I wanted to create a collection that truly married these passions, celebrating the Renaissance era which brought such beauty and magic into our world, but with a contemporary sensibility that speaks to modern life.
Work in Progress - Katherine Elder hand-painting mythical hippocampi on ebony wood using oils
The technically it was a challenge and required some experimentation. I sourced some ebony wood for its dramatic black backdrop and filed it to create perfectly smooth, sleek surfaces. Influenced by the miniature portraits of goldsmith Nicolas Hilliard, I decided on oval shapes - modern interpretations of classical cameos.
The Mythical Hippocampi: Guardians of Souls
The seahorse itself carries profound symbolism that made it perfect for this collection. In ancient Greek mythology, Poseidon - god of seas and earthquakes, father of horses - created the first horses from sea foam in crashing waves against the shore. So taken was he with his creation that he kept some to draw his golden chariot, giving them fin-like wings and fish tails. These became the hippocampi - mythical seahorses.
Ancient Greek depiction of Poseidon riding a Hippocampus, Athenian black-figure vase C6th B.C., British Museum
But the hippocampi were more than divine transport - they were responsible for guiding the souls of drowned sailors safely to the afterlife. This made them powerful symbols of protection for seafaring adventurers, who used the image for good luck and safe passage.
Modern seahorse symbolism adds even richer layers:
Fidelity and partnership - seahorses mate for life
Strength in turbulent waters - their powerful tails anchor them during storms
Patience and persistence - they move slowly but with purpose
Good fortune and protection - carried by sailors as talismans
The Pendant: Eternal Partnership
Hippocampi pendant detail showing two mythical sea horses painted in eternal dance around each other
The pendant became the heart of the collection, featuring two hippocampi swirling around each other in what I envisioned as their eternal bond. This design speaks directly to the seahorse's reputation for lifelong partnership - a powerful symbol for commitment rings and romantic gifts.
The pale peach morganite stone crowning the piece is associated with the heart chakra, love, and emotional healing. It’s soft peachy tones complement both the painted hippocampi and the freshwater pearls, creating a harmonious palette that feels both ancient and contemporary.
But perhaps my favourite detail is invisible to most observers: on the reverse of the ebony piece, I painted hidden arabesque motifs using seashells and coral. This secret garden reimagines classical decorative elements while maintaining the oceanic theme - and pays subtle homage to Venus, the goddess of love, who was born from the sea and brought to land in a clam shell on the waves created by seafoam hippocampi.
The Earrings: Theatrical Drama
Hippocampi earrings featuring hand-painted sea horses with deep red garnets and black pearls for evening glamour
Renaissance jewellery was designed to create desire and speculation - pieces that demanded attention and rewarded investigation. The earrings embody this theatrical spirit, with paired hippocampi staring across at each other from either ear, naturally drawing attention to the wearer's face.
The deep red garnets and black pearls were chosen for their evening glamour, but also for their symbolic weight. Garnets have been associated with love, the heart, and blood bonds since ancient times - perfect companions for creatures that guide souls safely home.
The colour combination creates what I call "luxurious evening drama" - pieces substantial enough for important occasions while maintaining the mythological storytelling that makes them conversation starters.
The Ring: Hidden Promises
Hippocampi ring showing sculptural shank that echoes mythical sea horse tails with hidden star-set diamond underneath
Rings were more ornate and decorated than ever before in the Renaissance, with no limit to how many one hand could wear. This ring was designed to complement the other pieces while telling its own story.
The pearls echo colours from both the earrings’ and pendant’s palettes, creating collection cohesion and the sculpted shank, which curves and scrolls like the hippocampi tails themselves, creats visual continuity between the painted imagery and the metalwork.
My favourite detail is completely secret: beneath the setting hides a tiny star-set white diamond. Only the wearer knows it's there - perhaps a promise of what's to come, a hidden reminder of their own inner light.
This speaks to the Renaissance love of concealed meanings. A suitor might give such a ring knowing that this secret diamond represented his hidden intentions, his promise that greater treasures awaited.
Symbolism Upon Symbolism: The Art of Layered Meaning
What excites me most about this collection is how it layers symbolism upon symbolism, creating pieces that reward both casual appreciation and deep investigation:
Surface Level: Beautiful, unusual jewellery featuring mythical creatures First Discovery: These are actual hand-painted artworks incorporated into precious metal settings.
Deeper Investigation: The hippocampi carry ancient protective symbolism for life's journeys Hidden Layer: Secret painted details and concealed diamonds create private meaning between maker and wearer Historical Context: The entire approach references Renaissance traditions of symbolic jewellery.
Contemporary Relevance: Why Ancient Symbols Matter Now
In our digital age, there's something deeply appealing about wearing symbols that have carried meaning for thousands of years. The woman who chooses a hippocampus is connecting herself to ancient stories of strength, partnership, and safe passage through turbulent waters.
Woman wearing complete Hippocampi Collection showing how ancient symbols translate to contemporary elegance
These pieces work for the modern woman because they're both boldly artistic and quietly meaningful. They make a statement about appreciating craftsmanship, understanding symbolism, and choosing pieces with stories over fleeting trends.
The collection appeals to clients who understand that true luxury lies not just in materials, but in meaning, craftsmanship, and the stories that pieces carry forward.
The Future of Hand-Painted Jewellery
This collection represents my first serious experiment with incorporating literal paintings into precious metal settings. While I'm still perfecting techniques to make hand-painted jewellery more permanent and accessible, these pieces prove that the marriage of fine art and goldsmithing can create something entirely unprecedented.
Katherine Elder's studio setup showing hand painted ebony wood pieces in potential design layout with pearls and settings
The technical challenges have taught me enormous amounts about material compatibility, protective finishes, and the structural requirements for painted elements in jewellery. Each piece in this collection has informed my approach to future experiments.
Creating Modern Heirlooms with Ancient Souls
The Hippocampi Collection ultimately represents my belief that contemporary jewellery can carry the same depth of meaning that made Renaissance pieces so treasured. By layering mythological symbolism, artistic technique, hidden details, and personal meaning, these pieces become more than decoration - they become talismans, conversation pieces, and eventually, heirlooms that carry their stories forward.
Complete Hippocampi Collection showing pendant, earrings, and ring together
When I see these pieces worn, I imagine the conversations they start, the stories they tell, the way they make their wearers feel connected to something larger than themselves. That connection - between ancient wisdom and contemporary life, between artistic vision and daily wear, between maker and wearer - is what makes jewellery truly precious.
The Hippocampi Collection represents a limited exploration of hand-painted jewellery techniques. Each piece is unique and unrepeatable, making them true collector's items for those who appreciate the intersection of fine art and precious metalwork.
Interested in commissioning a piece that layers personal symbolism with mythological meaning? Each bespoke commission begins with understanding your story and finding the symbols that speak to your journey.
Contact Katherine to begin the conversation.
View the latest Hippocampi Collection in A Sea Full of Stars